BOVARO Material Lab
The facts“Steel Wars: 316L vs. 904L – The Battle of Watchmaking Finest Metals”
Known as “surgical grade” stainless steel, 316L has become a cornerstone of modern watchmaking due to its remarkable durability, corrosion resistance, and luxurious finish. This alloy is highly resistant to scratches, moisture, and even harsh environmental conditions like saltwater, making it ideal for everyday wear and dive watches.
One of its most appealing qualities is its hypoallergenic nature, ensuring comfort for sensitive skin. The “L” in 316L stands for “low carbon,” which prevents rusting and allows the steel to maintain its shine for decades.
Fun fact: Rolex was among the pioneers of 316L steel in luxury watches before switching to 904L, a costlier variant, in 1985. However, 316L remains the industry favourite due to its versatility and value.
Another twist? Despite its toughness, 316L is pliable enough to craft intricate designs, enabling watchmakers to balance durability with artistic elegance. Truly, it’s a material that ticks all the right boxes!
The primary difference between 316L and 904L stainless steel lies in their composition, corrosion resistance, and applications, which make them suited for different roles in watchmaking and other industries. Here’s a breakdown:
|
316L |
904L |
Composition |
It contains chromium, nickel, and a small amount of molybdenum, which enhances its corrosion resistance. |
Has higher levels of chromium, nickel, molybdenum, and the addition of copper. This combination increases its strength and corrosion resistance, especially against acids |
Corrosion Resistance |
Extremely resistant to rust and corrosion, especially in everyday conditions and saltwater environments, making it ideal for dive watches. |
Offers even better corrosion resistance, particularly in acidic or harsher environments, due to the added copper. |
Finish and Appearance |
Can be polished to a high shine but may lose some lustre over time. |
Achieves a brighter, more luxurious finish and maintains its polish longer, making it popular in luxury watchmaking (e.g., Rolex). |
Durability and Strength |
Strong and durable but softer compared to 904L, making it easier to machine and work with. |
Harder and more resistant to wear, but it’s also more difficult to machine, adding to manufacturing costs. |
Cost and Availability
|
Widely used and more affordable, making it a standard for most mid-range and high-quality watches. |
More expensive and less common due to the higher material and production costs, primarily used in high-end luxury watches. |
Summary
316L is the industry standard for its affordability, versatility, and excellent performance in most environments. 904L, on the other hand, is a luxury upgrade, offering superior corrosion resistance and a premium finish, but at a higher cost.

Shaping the Future of Timepieces - Stay Tuned!
“The first wristwatch was made for a woman—Queen Elizabeth I—in 1571, proving that time has always been fashionable!”

Shaping the Future of Timepieces - Stay Tuned!
“Rolex was originally founded to create watches for the British Army, so next time you check your watch, remember—it’s military-grade timekeeping!”

Shaping the Future of Timepieces - Stay Tuned!
“The world’s most expensive watch, a Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime, sold for $31 million, proving that time really is money!”

Shaping the Future of Timepieces - Stay Tuned!
“In 1969, the Apollo 11 astronauts wore Omega Speedmasters, making them the first watches on the moon—talk about out-of-this-world timekeeping!”

Shaping the Future of Timepieces - Stay Tuned!
“The average person will check their watch over 20 times a day—turns out, we really are obsessed with time!”

Shaping the Future of Timepieces - Stay Tuned!
“The term ‘watch’ comes from the Old English word ‘woecce,’ meaning ‘to keep awake’—because who needs sleep when you have time to check?”

Shaping the Future of Timepieces - Stay Tuned!
“Watches have been around for over 500 years—longer than most of us can remember where we put our keys!”

Shaping the Future of Timepieces - Stay Tuned!
“In Japan, there’s a term called ‘Toki no Sabaki,’ meaning ‘time management,’ which is just a fancy way of saying, ‘Stop being late!'”

Shaping the Future of Timepieces - Stay Tuned!
“In the 17th century, pocket watches were so large they needed a carry case—because who wouldn’t want to lug around a mini safe?”